Madeleines + A Trip to Paris

Paris is one of those cities that gets into your system and stays with you.  There is something magical. Magical about the lifestyle, the fashion, the ease of movement, and the food.  The food is simple, perfectly crafted, and delicious.  I ate my share of eclairs, croissants, baguettes, steak-frites, souffles, crepes, ice cream, and croque monsieur’s. I ate whatever I wanted, when ever I wanted. Boulangeries are in abundance and sneaking in for an eclair or a mille-feuilles is a temptation I wasn’t about to pass up.

I went to Paris, research in hand, and a small, green journal filled with places I didn’t want to miss. I vowed I would conquer all corners of the city and find these little treasures, pastry shops, chocolate shops, and cafes.  My list was long, too long.  So, each night, before I went to bed, I prioritized, plotted and planned which part of the city I was going to attack.  I was on a mission.  I was able to cover almost everything: Pierre Herme, La Maison du Chocolat, Le Grande Epicerie,   Cuisine de Bar, Laduree, Berthillon Ice Cream, Luxembourg Gardens, Musee d/Orsay, and E.Dehlerrin, but my expectations were too grand.  However, what I did see, do, taste, and experience was perfect.

E Dehillerin was high on my list and was a place I wasn’t going to miss.  This is a store in the 1st arrondissements(arrondissements are the sections of the city), is family run and has been in business since 1820. From floor to ceiling, basic wooden shelves are lined with kitchen accessories, pots, pans, every size baking pan and molds, whisks, spatulas, and rolling pins. There is nothing fancy on the walls, the floors are cement and the wooden stairs leading the the basement level doesn’t have a hand rail.  For those of us that love to cook and enjoy doing it, this place is heaven.  Disimiliar to American stores like Surfas or Sur le Table, both being perfectly organized and crafted, E Dehillerin, in its simplest form, is filled with a wealth of treasures.

I was tempted to overindulge.  But I had to remind myself that I was 6,000 miles away from my own kitchen and transporting all of this bulky kitchen ware wouldn’t be easy.  Instead, I settled on a restaurant style sifter, a small copper pot, and a set of mini madeleine molds.  I left the store with my big, paper shopping bag in hand and I was content. If you’re passionate about cooking and have plans to travel to Paris, E. Dehillerin is worth the vist.

Classic Madeleines


2/3 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
pinch of salt
1/3 cup sugar
Grated zest of 1/2 lemon
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled


• butter and flour the madeline molds.  set aside.
• whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.
• in the bowl of an electric mixer, with you hands mix the sugar and teh lemon zest until all combined.
• add the eggs and beat until light and fluffy. add vanilla.
• fold in the dry ingredients.
• add in the melted butter.
• let the batter rest for at least 3 hours( I put the batter in the prepared madeleine pans, covered with plastic wrap and let rest over night in the fridge).
• preheat oven to 400*. place pre-prepped madeleine pans filled with batter on a rimmed baking sheet(remove plastic wrap). place the pans in the oven directly from the fridge.
• bake large madeleines for 11-13 monutes and the minis for 8-10 minutes, or until golden and the tops spring back when touched.
• remove the pan from the oven and release the madeleines from the molds by rapping the edge of the pan against the counter. transfer the cookies to a rack to cool to just-warm or room temperature.

The Urban Baker /

related links:
Madeleines – Chelsea Bakes
Chocolate Lemon Madeleines – The Little Teochew
Cinnamon + Ginger Madeleines – Technicolor Kitchen
Orange + Pistachio Madeleines – Sugarplum Musings
Classic French Madeleines – Bakers Royale
Orange + Brown Butter Madeleines – Cannelle et Vanille

Showing 20 comments
  • Amanda

    Beautiful reminiscing and recipe!

  • Reply

    I have yet to go to E Dehillerin, but have been wanting to for ages! It must have been a treasure trove of cooking and baking goods.

    • Susan

      Sylvie – this was so high on my wish list that I am glad I made it happen. It was a treasure trove and an experience. The experience is what I will carry with me!

  • Kristen

    Wish I could go – your post makes me long for my own wish journal and marking this one off of it!

    • Susan

      Kristen – this was certainly on my wish list. You have reminded me that I need to start a “wish journal” and start visualizing on all the possibilities!

  • Ria

    Hey Susan, thanks for stopping by my blog! You have a beautiful space!

    I’ve never been to Paris and I would love to visit one day. I just hope that it matches my expectations as I dream so much about ‘how’ Paris might look like or be like 😀

    I’ve baked these madeleines and they are awesome! Dorie’s recipes never fail!

  • Deliciously Organic

    Of course, you know this is one of my favorite stops in Paris. I’m so glad you got to go and experience it all. I can’t wait to hear more about your trip!

  • Esi

    You make me want to go back!

  • Lucy Lean

    oooh – how wonderful – can’t wait to get back there this summer. Love madelines – x

  • Kim

    I did the same thing when I went to New York. I had a little book and lots of adresses were in. Way too much places! Paris is a magnificent city and there is a lot of things to do there (way more than eating pastries…) I envy you, I wish I can go back there one day… These madeleines looks pretty good to me. I love these a lot. I would eat madeleines every day but my hips… Have a nice evening!

  • Allison [Haute Box]

    I have little to no French in my ancestry, but I feel French in my blood stream almost always. I love France, it’s food and it’s fashion. I, too, have had my share of pain au chocolat, baguette avec beurre, etc.


  • anna benavides

    I went last year to Paris and ended up in this store! I was in awe and did know what to get.. my mother ended up buying stuff, some rooster metal skewers.. they have the best scrapers(plastic).. I got some for Jamie.. I have not seen those anywhere.. BUT ANYWAYS.. hope you share more pictures and stories of your trip.. take care.. it truly is a magical place.. cant wait to go back..

  • Tessa

    Oh the food in Paris… no words to describe. Love that you brought back kitchenwares, now your trip will always be with you.

  • Reply

    Food and travel are two of life’s greatest pleasures and this post makes me want more of both!

  • Sarah

    You are so right! I went to Paris in ’09 for almost 2 weeks and I still think about it almost daily. I don’t have plans to go back (so many other places to visit!) but I will eventually. ‘Til then, I will live vicariously through other’s trips!
    I also just acquired some mini-madeline pans at an estate sale, you’ve inspired me to finally use them.

    • Susan

      oh, I am so glad. I cannot wait to see what you come up with. Mini anything always seems to taste so great!

  • Reply

    I’ve seen this shop mentioned in the Barefoot Contessa Paris cookbook and would love to visit, if only to buy an authentic French whisk. I loved the image of you emerging from the shop with your paper shopping bag, it’s a treat to armchair travel via my iPad – I’m enjoying reading your blog! – Lisa

    • Susan

      Hey Lisa – thanks so much for coming by! I am going to pull my BC Paris book off my bookshelf and see what she says about this fabulous shop. I thought about buying a whisk…but didn’t I guess I will just have to go back
      and get that whisk. Great suggestion!!

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